Gryphon & Gryphle0n

Introduction
1. Features
Build Guide

Introduction

The Gryphon is an open-source flywheel blaster designed by Flygonial and available on Github. Most up to date CAD files can be found here.

Features

(Pulled from the Github page)

Uses 130 to 180 sized 20.4mm , brushed DC motors.
Semi-auto by rack and pinion with 1:3 gear multiplication. The trigger pull is fairly short at 12mm.
Accepts 33 to 38mm OD flywheels (all 2mm shaft fit, superstock upgrade flywheels).
Utilizes a horizontal flywheel cage that bolts directly onto the magwell. This is a mounting pattern less prone to misalignment than a Stryfe’s mounting bosses or similar.
Accepts Worker Talon mags, Katana-geometry mags with a lower release cut-out, and almost all full-length magazines.
Battery is located in the stock or a side battery tray.
Full-length feed guide integrated in magwell for maximum feeding reliability.
Bore-axis is almost as close as possible to top rail of blaster, which is theoretically more intuitive to aim with.
Will fit on build volume as small as 120 mm3.

In my opinion, the Gryphon platform is solid, easy to print, relatively easy to assemble, and offers a lot of modding and upgrade potential. The Gryphle0n is my slightly modified version where superfluous decorations have been removed, some parts tweaked for better printability, and utilizes heatset inserts anywhere screws go directly into plastic.

Gryphle0n & Gryphon

Gryphle0n Front

Gryphle0n Grip

Gryphle0n Middle

Gryphle0n Top

Build Guide

BOM

Cage

Mount Motors

Double check the motors’ polarities, make sure the motors are fully seated, and that the shafts appear parallel to each other and perpendicular to the mounting.

4 x M2x4 FHCS

Mount Flywheels

Check Flywheels' Alignment Check Flywheels’ Alignment

When press-fitting the flywheels, get them as even as possible with the flywheels’ middles centered to the dart hole. Additionally, check to make sure they aren’t binding and don’t rub against any plastic as they turn.

Install Flywheels' Cover Install Flywheel Cover

2 x M3x8 SHCS

Out of Darts' Motor Spanning Board Out of Darts’ Motor Spanning Board

Out of Darts’ Motor Spanning Board makes wiring up the motors a bit easier. The PCB handles the inter-motor connections and you only have to deal with a pair of wires leading to the first XT60 female connector.

Place Motor Spacers

The motor spanning board comes with some printed spacers to give some clearance and prevent shorts. Place them like so.

Spanning Board Soldered

Solder Wires for XT60 Connector

Install Motors' Cover Install Motors’ Cover

2 x M3x8 SHCS
1 x M3x20 SHCS

Check Wires Against Magwell for Length

Feed the wires through the magwell to get a feel for the length required. The XT60 connector here will sit underneath a wire cover.

Solder and Heatshrink the XT60 Female Connector

Don’t forget to place the heatsinks on the wires before soldering to the XT60 female connector. In this particularly case, the motors were oriented per the PCB’s markings, but still ended spinning the wrong way, so I inverted the XT60 to correct it.

Magwell

Attaching Magwell

4 x M3x8 SHCS

Magwell attached

Grip

Grip Grip

Grip with Switch Posts

Install the two screws that form the switch seating posts.

2 x M3x10 SHCS

Switch Placement

The 21A switch sits like so.

Required Wires

Positive wire (blue) has two runs; one from the motors to the switch, and one from the switch to the battery. We’ll be using NO and COM terminals to power the motors only when the trigger is pressed. Negative wire (white) goes directly from the motors to the battery.

Finish the Motors' XT60 Connector Finish the Motors’ XT60 Connector

Solder the wires to the XT60 male connector, connect it to the motors, then feed the wires through the top cover.

Solder the 21A Switch

Solder the other end of the motors-to-switch positive wire and one end of the switch-to-battery wire to the NO and COM terminals of the switch. It does not matter which wire goes to NO and COM.

Install Switch Trigger and Tuck Wires

Assemble and install the switch trigger. Apply a bit of silicone grease to smoothen the action. Wires will tuck like so.

1 x M3x6 SHCS

Install the Pusher

Install the pusher with the teeth on the far side and closer to the rear of the grip. Apply a bit of silicone to the sides of the pusher to smoothen the action.

Install the Trigger

Install the trigger with the spring. Depending on print quality and spring strength, you may need a second spring to ensure that the trigger and pusher returns to the original positions. Apply a bit of silicone grease to area around the post and spring to smoothen the action.

Install the Toothed Gear

Install the toothed gear and line up the center hole with the receiving hole in the grip. Apply a bit of silicone grease to the faces of the gear to smoothen the action.

Install Grip Cover and Toothed Gear Shaft

Secure the grip cover with an M3 screw, and insert the 2mm shaft through the cover, toothed gear, and grip frame.

1 x M3x6 SHCS

Close Top Cover

Close up the top cover. This part is fiddly. Wires should stay tucked behind the toothed gear and not impede the gear rotation. There’s a notch in the cover to accommodate the shaft.

Secure Mag Release

Secure the mag release switch with an M3 screw.

1 x M3x16 SHCS

Install Spring and Connect Magwell with Grip

Place the mag release spring between the magrelease switch and grip frame, and insert the grip into the magwell. This is a good opportunity to test the trigger action. The trigger and pusher should extend and return with no sticking. Watching the action from the bottom of the magwell, you should see the pusher extend forward and retract all the way. If the pusher does not retract fully, it will prevent darts from feeding properly.

Install Magwell Wire Cover